To begin, I would like to dedicate this post to my vegetarian college roommate Darcey, without whom I would probably still be confusing Manchego with Parmesan.  Thanks for bringing me into your world of cheese (and wine).  You almost have to correlate the two, no?  I hate to put wine & cheese on the same level as, say, peanut butter & jelly, but now that I know such a thing as a cheese tasting exists, I think I might.   I was aware there was a whole world of cheese out there to be tasted, hence the cheese plate, but I was naive to the fact that is a defined process and vocabulary by which to taste.  This is where my roommate failed me, or perhaps did not yet dare to venture.

Cheese, apparently, should be judged first by observation, then by touch, smell, taste, and aftertaste.  You can describe its texture using words such as chalky, assertive, oozy, voluptuous, and fluffy.  After you take a whiff, you might say that it smells a tad earthy or stale.  And after that first bite declare it biting or piquant!  The list continues, but my point remains that this cheese tasting business seems just as complex as the beloved wine tasting.  But were the two combined?! 

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When you too throw calories to the wind and adopt cheese tasting as your new hobby, note that like (red) wine cheese needs to breathe before eaten.  It also should be room temperature and should progress from mild cheeses to sharp cheese for a bold finale.  We learned about the different types of milk used to produce cheese, the resulting color, & fat content which quickly blew from my memory.  We learned of the different processes that make a cheese young, hard, or with a purple rind.  When organizing a cheese plate you should select a variety of cheese types from light to robust, from pillowy to firm, and all those buttery adjectives (and vino) in between.  Here is a custom designed Chritine Plate from the gazillion samples we were so lucky to taste plus the recipes for ricotta and mozzarella.  I still cannot believe I made cheese!

1. Crescenza Stracchino – I didn’t catch the brand, but make sure to have some toasts for spreading and, perhaps, an herbed oil.  The word buttery was made to describe this cheese.
2. Gran Bu – This cheese is made from buffalo milk giving it too a high butter fat content and thus a very luxurious affect on the palette.  This cheese is very brittle, so let it break as it will and chisel the cheese along the grain.
3. Ubriacone – A good soaking in grape must gives this cheese a beautiful purple rind and striping throughout the cheese.  It will add color and a pretty strong wine taste to your tasting if you didn’t pair   You always need at least one cheese with a crazy kick!
4. Fontina Val D’Aosta - Not your usual Fontina.  Did you know that one with the red rind at your local grocer is a fake?  The super intense, nutty, and mushroomy flavor of this cheese pairs nicely with fruits or an orange or quince paste.
5. Gorgonzola Dolce – For all you blue cheese haters out there I apologize, but this is your big finish!  It doesn’t get any bolder than blue cheese, but I promise this one isn’t as pungent as some. 

Ricotta

Yield 14 oz.

 

• 2L milk
• 1/2 t citric acid
• Cream, as needed
• 1/2 t salt

Place the milk, acetic acid, and salt in a small saucepan and heat to 195 F, stirring often.  When the curds start to form and separate from the whey, remove from the heat and let rest without stirring for 10 minutes.

Carefully ladle the curds and whey into a strainer lined with cheesecloth and strain.

To serve, mix ricotta with cream to desired consistency and drizzle with honey and balsamic vinegar.  Or use untouched for your recipe of choice.

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Mozzarella

Yield 17 oz.

                                                                              

• 3 L water
• salt, as needed
• 17 oz mozzarella curd

Heat water to 180 F.  Add salt.

With the curds in a stainless steel bowl, add water to cover.  Work the curds, pulling and stretching, until the water is cloudy and white.  Replace cloudy water and continue working, repeating this process until the water is clear. 

Once the mozzarella is the correct consistency, pull off small pieces and roll into balls in the hot water.  Transfer to ice water to cool. 

Dress small mozzarella balls, or cut balls into quarters, with olive oil, herbs, and salt and pepper.

It does only make sense that the first recipes crafted in an Italian culinary program would be tomato based.  As my teacher said, you haven’t tasted a tomato until you’ve tasted one grown in Italy and it is a main ingredient in the majority of dishes, second only to garlic and olive oil.  But we actually began our kitchen journey with taillage or the fine art of cutlery aka knife skills.  These tomato recipes just so happened to showcase new techniques such as concasse and cuts like chiffonade, julienne, and jardiniere.  Remind me to thank the French for crafting such specific requirements for cutting vegetables, particularly for tournage, the turning of vegetables until they’re perfectly shaped with 7 faceted sides and two blunt ends…  I am unsure that I will ever master this tecnique, but I’m sure many a potato will be wasted in the process. 

Without further ado, here are our first two recipes.  My apologies in advance for the lack of more quality photography over the next 6 months.  My pictures are now taken via iPhone in a rush to get my recipe plated and in front of the chef for review so I can move on to the next dish.  I should probably also apologize for the metric measurements, but I promise to convert where I can.  Alas I still struggle to grasp the volume of liters and weight in grams.  Luckily, I was quite relieved to hear the chefs instruct us NOT to follow the recipes to a tee, but to use them as a guideline to make things our own.

Panzanella (Bread Salad)

Serves 3.

                                                             

• 175 g (6 oz) day old country bread, cut into small cubes
• 65 mL (2 oz) red wine vinegar
• 2 scallions, sliced thin
• 1/2 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and sliced thin
• 1/2 red or yellow bell pepper, sliced thin
• 1 1/2 tomatoes, concasse
• 10 basil leaves, julienne
• 4-6 anchovy fillets, chopped*
• 45 mL (1 1/2 oz) extra virgin olive oil
• salt and fresh pepper
• 1 t fresh marjoram, chopped

To concasse the tomatoes, remove the stem and score an “X” in the opposite tip.  Submerge in boiling water for about 30 seconds until the skin begins to peel back and then transfer to an ice bath.  When cool, use a paring knife to remove the skin and ends so that you can easily cut into the tomato lengthwise and roll the tomato using your knife to remove the seeds in one swoop!  Chop the tomatoes into a large dice, dadi grandi.  The skin and seeds are removed because that’s where most of the acidity in the tomato is found, thus when they’re removed the tomato is easier to digest.

Soak the bread in about half of the vinegar for a few minutes. 

In a bowl, whisk the remaining vinegar with the olive oil and spices.  Toss with remaining ingredients and let stand 30 minutes before serving.

*You will be shocked at the number of these recipes that contain anchovies.  I recommend you buy those packed in salt as they are less fishy tasting, but always make sure to rinse them before use.  Also, while the anchovies are optional in the majority of these recipes, they make all the difference and I recommend you give them a try!

       

Bruschetta (pronounced brus’k'etta) Al Pomodoro

Serves 4.

 

• 3 basil leaves, coarsley chopped
• 100 g (3.5 oz) tomato concasse
• 7 1/2 mL aceto balsamico di Modena (the real deal)
• 7 1/2 mL red wine vinegar
• 30 mL extra virgin olive oil
• Pinch of red pepper flakes
• salt and fresh ground pepper
• 2 large slices of bread
• 1 garlic clove

 

Combine the basil, tomatoes, liquids, and spices in a bowl adjusting the seasoning to taste!

Grill or toast the bread and rub it with the garlic.  Spoon the tomato mixture over the bread and mangia!

 

Pomodori Arrosto

• 3 plum tomatoes, concasse, cut into 1/2 inch slices
• 1/2 lemon, peeled
• 1/2 orange, peeled
• salt and pepper
• 1 thyme stem, broken
• 1 rosemary stem, optional
• basil leaves, optional
• extra virgin olive oil

Drizzle oil onto a sheet tray lined with parchment paper and scatter the citrus peels on the tray.  Lay the tomato slices flat in even rows and season.  Lay the thyme and other spices (of your choice) over the tomatoes and roast at 200 F until shrunken and caramelized.  Store covered in olive oil.

They always say the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach and, well, it finally worked, making me the proud new owner of a shiny sparkly glittery diamond ring!  That said, I have cooked for many a man without the reward of a platinum set symbol of lifetime commitment, but perhaps I had just not yet reached my full potential as a culinary temptress.  On a recent occasion I was lucky enough to be in possession of young hungry fiancé’s favorite childhood recipe courtesy of future mother-in-law.  Thank you!  Even with my new heightened powers of palate persuasion it helps to have the aid of a good recipe…  Such is the history of the following Garlic Shrimp & Rice, which served as a yummy surprise for my plus one after a long day at work and school.  I do have to start practicing my homemaking skills now don’t I!

Garlic-y Shrimp & Rice

• 1 cup rice (I used short grain brown rice)
• 2 cups chicken broth
• 2 T butter
• 2 T olive oil
• 1 bunch scallions, chopped
• 5 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 lb shrimp, peeled with tails
• 3 T lemon juice
• ¼ t black pepper
• ½ c Parmesan cheese, grated
• Parsley or spinach

 

Bring broth to a boil, add rice, lower heat, and simmer covered for 25-50 minutes according to package instructions.

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In a sauté pan, melt butter and olive oil over medium heat.  Add scallions and garlic and cook for 3 minutes until soft.  Add shrimp and cook for 4 minutes, flipping mid-way.  Add lemon juice and pepper and continue to cook for 4 minutes.  Stir in cheese and parsley or spinach until wilted. 

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Top rice with shrimp to steal his heart!

If this little app doesn’t scream Spring has sprung then I don’t know what will!  These cherry tomatoes, stuffed with a mixture of various green veggies, are easy to pop in your mouth and would surely be a big hit at your next picnic, shower, or BBQ! 

 

I learned how to make these in my vegetarian cooking class while studying abroad in Florence, Italy.  I’ll never forget my shock and awe at the amount of flavor packed into such a small neat package.  Those Italians really know how to work culinary magic on the simplest of foods.  We worked our way through the end of summer and all of fall, veggie by veggie as they went and came into season to catch each at its very best.  That’s how they eat in Italy, you know.  If you get produce when it’s in season you capitalize on both taste and economics!  Something we could all probably stand to pay a bit more attention to here in the states.  Alas, we crave what we crave when we crave it and very often have the means to make it happen.  That said, I hope you all take heed and try this recipe now before it’s too late! 

 

Ciliegini Al verde

• 18 cherry tomatoes
• 300 g zucchini, diced (2 cups)
• 150g green peas (1 cup)
• 150 g spinach, boiled
• 100 g extra virgin olive oil
• 100 g heavy cream
• 10 g potato starch
• dry white wine
• salt & pepper, to taste

Cut the tomatoes in halves and scoop out the seeds and pulp, salt, and put up side down to drain. 

Saute the diced zucchini over medium heat with 1/3 of the olive oil, salt and pepper.  In a pan, saute minced scallions in another third of oil for 4-5 minutes, toss in peas, and stew for 10 minutes with olive oil, salt and pepper. 

In a blender, process the three vegetables, one at a time, transfer into separate bowls and amalgamate with the potato starch dissoved in half a glass of luke warm white wine.

Stuff the tomatoes with the vegetable batter and refrigerate for 1 hour.

**My apologies for the Italian’s loose  recipe style… and the metric measurements!

I read an article in my newest Bon Appétit about Puglia, Italy, coined “the new Tuscany” because their lack of resources have resulted in a very simple culinary style. Simple, however, does not equal plain or boring. Upon turning the page to find a multitude of Donatella Arpaia’s recipes, my mouth watered as it would for any lavish Italian feast. The idea of using fava beans in pasta and perfectly pairing oils with their proper counterpart does not sound at all disappointing to me! All too often fancy amalgamations are only as impressive as the words themselves – they are still but a combination that is only as good as the sum of its parts.

               

Here’s a quick and easy tomato sauce, again from Smitten Kitchen. I jazzed it up a bit with my tried and true ricotta topping that can be adapted to almost any Mediterranean meal simply by substituting the Parmesan for, say, feta and the basil with parsley or other herb of your choice! So with summer knocking at our doors, simplify your menu and spend a few extra minutes by the pool.

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Butter and Onion Sauce:

Serves 4.

• 28 ounces whole peeled tomatoes from a can (preferably San Marzano)
• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium-sized yellow onion, peeled and halved
• Salt, to taste
• Pasta

 

Bring the tomatoes, onion and butter in a saucepan to a simmer over medium heat,  lower, and cook for 45 minutes stirring occasionally and pressing the whole tomatoes against the side of the pot. In the meantime prepare your pasta and topping.  Remove from heat, discard the onion, add salt to taste.

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Ricotta Topping:

• 1 cup ricotta cheese
• ¼ cup shaved Parmesan cheese
• Fresh basil, chopped
• Salt & pepper, to taste

 

Serve with a light fresh pasta and top with sauce and ricotta mixture!  I used whole wheat pappardelle, but found it a bit too overpowering for the light sauce.  I’d go with something with less flavor next time.

Not your mamma's pizza

Best friends buy best presents and so, when Christine shipped me a case of impossible-to-find-but-absolutely-amazing Don Pepino pizza sauce for my birthday, I immediately began to think of ways in which to use it.  Here, I used the sauce to top a honey pizza crust topped with….mini ravioli?  Yes, ravioli!  I admit that I was inspired by the macaroni & cheese pizza I find in NYC.  Boiled first and then baked on the pizza, the ravioli turn soft in the middle and crisp on the edges and are a terrific, unique topping for your pizza pie.  Mangia! 

  

  

  P.S.—this crust recipe is awesome.  An amalgamation of several recipes that I’ve seen, this rises high and bakes up fluffy with a hint of sweetness from the honey. 

  

Pizza dough: 

Ingredients 

1 package quick rising active dry yeast 

¾ cup warm water 

3 T honey 

3 T EVOO 

1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour 

¾ teaspoon salt 

Crust, after the second rising

 

Directions 

In a small bowl, combine yeast through EVOO; let sit for 5 min.

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In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, place flour and salt.  Turn mixer on low and gently stream yeast mixture into flour.  Increase speed to medium high and mix until dough forms a ball, drop speed to medium and mix for an additional 5-7 minutes, until dough is smooth and elastic.

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Coat ball of dough with oil and allow to rise, covered, in a warm place (I used the stand mixer bowl covered with a dish cloth) for 60 minutes.

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Punch down dough and roll out to size of pizza sheet.  Place on oiled sheet dusted with cornmeal, brush with olive oil, and allow to rise again, covered for 30 minutes.  Top dough and bake pizza.

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Pizza:

Ingredients

1 batch pizza dough, prepared as directed above (or use store bought)

2 c pizza sauce

1 cup shredded provolone cheese

1 box frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

½ c buffalo mozzarella, very thinly sliced

½ c tomato, diced

½ package mini ravioli (about 4 oz) boiled per directions minus 2-3 minutes (I used a mushroom and ricotta version)

The venerable Don Pepino

 

Directions: 

Preheat oven to 450. 

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Spread pizza sauce over dough and top with shredded cheese.  Layer spinach (this may clump—it’s even better that way) and rest of ingredients, ending with ravioli on top.  Bake pizza for ~25 minutes or until crust is brown and cheese is bubbly.  Serve and enjoy! 

Yummers

Who wants to get up early to slave over the stove, rising hours before your guests arrive to make brunch?  Not I.  This Italian variation on the Mexican Huevos Rancheros (soon to follow) can be made from leftover spaghetti sauce or store bought if slaving in general just isn’t your thing!  The remainder of the ingredients can be kept on hand so a big breakfast or brunch are never out of your reach.  Serve with prosecco juiced up with some peach nectar or Orangina.

 

 

Huevos Italiano

Serves 4.

 

• 2 cups of your favorite spaghetti sauce
• 8 eggs, fried or poached
• 4 large slices Ciabatta bread (or other Italian bread)
• ½ cup Parmesan cheese, grated
• ¼ cup Italian parsley, chopped

 

Sleep in, toast bread and top with one quarter each: sauce, eggs, cheese & parsley! 

 

Oh, how I love risotto.  One part delicious rice dish, one part strict technique makes eating the finished product seem oh so special.  I remember learning to make this dish with my Godmother, furiously stirring the pot as she ladled in the broth.  Our hard work was repaid with melt-in-your-mouth pools of creamy goodness.

 

A meal fit for a restaurant, yet perfect at home.

Here is one of my favorite risotto recipes.  The bright lemon really shines and the leeks impart a mellow onion flavor.  It’s great as is or paired with seafood and a green vegetable for a more robust offering.  Adding the egg yolk is a little trick I’ve picked up over the years—it helps bind the rice together and makes it just a tad bit richer…and who among us doesn’t want to be richer?

Ingredients:

2 large or 3 small leeks

2 T butter

¼ tsp finely ground pepper

 

2 T EVOO

1 shallot, minced

1.5 c Arborio or Carnaroli rice

½ c white wine

4-5 cups vegetable broth*, kept at a bare simmer over low heat 

2 T lemon juice

Zest of 1 lemon

1 T butter

¼ c grated Romano cheese (or sub in Parmesan)

1 egg yolk

Chopped parsley for garnish

 

Directions:

Slice off tops of leeks, leaving only white and light green parts; discard tops or keep for stock.  Cut leeks in half lengthwise and finely slice into semi circles.  Rinse chopped leeks well and drain.  In a large sauté pan, melt butter and sauté leeks until wilted and lightly browned.  Season with pepper.  Remove leeks from pan and set aside.

 

 

Sauteeing the leeks

In the same pan, heat the EVOO over medium; sauté shallot until soft but not brown.  Add rice and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add wine and stir until liquid is nearly absorbed.  Add broth 1-2 ladlefuls at a time and cook, continually stirring, until liquid is nearly absorbed before adding more.  Continue this method until rice is creamy and tender. 

Right before serving, stir in sautéed leeks, lemon juice, zest, butter, egg yolk, and cheese.  Season to taste with S&P.  Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.

 

*I caution you to choose a brand of broth (or, better yet, homemade variety for those among us with the inclination to go the extra mile) that you really like as the flavor will condense significantly. 

Have you enjoyed 5 days of soups and more than enough veggies to compensate for a month worth of French fried sides?   Alas, I’ve saved the best for last!  A Tuscan favorite enjoyed by many a peasant past – ribollita!  Ribollita, next to Papa al Pomodoro, was probably one of my best finds during my time studying abroad in Florence.  I honestly don’t know what I would have done without this “kitchen sink” of soups or with the abundance of fresh market goods in my pantry had we not been introduced.  Ribollita isn’t really all that different from other soups.  It generally contains broth, beans, and vegetables, but then you add big chunks of Tuscan pan (bread), which completely transforms the consistency of the soup.  Suddenly it’s thick and creamy enough to comfort even the most homesick of students.  Mangia!

Ribollita

Serves 4-6.

 

• ¼ cup olive oil, divided
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 4 ounces pancetta, chopped
• 15 ounce can diced tomatoes
• 1 head of kale, spinach, or swiss chard
• 15 ounce can cannellini beans
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 parmesan rind
• Salt & pepper
• 3 cups bread, cubed
• Grated parmesan, for garnish

 

Heat half of the oil over medium heat, add onion, carrot, garlic, and pancetta and cook until the veggies are soft and the pancetta is crisp, about 8 minutes.  Add remaining ingredients except for the bread.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.  Stir in bread until complete submerged and creamy.  Top with Parmesan cheese!